I
arrived in Cambodia after a very long journey from Dalat, Vietnam. I
had taken a bus to get to Ho Chi Minh City, then met with Royce, and
bought a ticket to continue onto a night bus to get to Siem Reap.
For the first time, the bus attendant requested he hold everyone's
passport for the journey so it would make everything easier at the
border. I was absolutely terrified, also had to pay cash for the visa
cost. In my guide books it advises to never give your passport to be
held or pay cash because the bus company will keep them, and then you
have to pay the border control again.. Well, I asked around, everyone
else waiting for the bus had done this.. Soo I unwillingly gave them
my passport. This sleeping bus was much better than the Laos Vietnam
journey because I had a double section to myself. Some friendly
german guys were across from me, and we ended up becoming quite close
during the journey. There were random noises and I just couldn't
sleep for whatever reason. It was a similar situation where we parked
at the border and in the morning as soon as it opened the bus
attendant woke everyone up and informed them to go into the building
and retrieve our passports after filling out a paper. The locals were
shoving and cutting all us Caucasians who had no idea what was going
on. They were trying to get their bus of passports stamped before
others, etc ,etc. Luckily nothing happened with our passports and
after only maybe an hour after we entered the chaos of border
crossing the bus was through. We then stopped and got some breakfast
at a bus restaurant. The bus restaurants are crazy, they are in
cahoots with the bus companies and the drivers get to eat and lounge
for free. The food isn't good, and the prices are ridiculous compared
to eating elsewhere. And by ridiculous I mean, 3 dollars instead of 1
dollar. For tourist, maybe it's not that much of a difference but for
the locals on the bus, that's pretty unfair. The bus continued onto
Phnom Penh where we had another stopover to grab some lunch and then
board yet another bus. I ate some lunch with the German guys then we
boarded the final bus.. Unfortunately unlike what we were told this
was like an old charter bus, very hot and sweaty with sticky old
leather seats. Not the sleeping bus we were told, or wifi, or a
toilet. Haha typical bus journeys. We finally arrive in Siem Reap
pretty late, I want to say close to 8pm. Many of the hostels were
already booked so the German guys and I decided to split a triple
room together and visit the Angkor Wat together the next day. For 4
dollars each I believe we got a tuk tuk (three wheeled motorcycle
pulling a trailer to sit in) to drive us around all day to all of the
Temples. We did Angkor Wat for sunrise and it was absolutely
incredible. There are tons of children selling post cards, wraps,
tshirts, painting, photo copied books, and soo much more at the park.
These definitely take away from the experience a lot as they don't
leave you alone. We explored the most famous temples. To think that
these were built soo soo many years ago and they are so complex! We
snuck up to the sunset spot (had to sneak because we weren't wearing
appropriate clothes) then headed back since we were tired after a
long day of temple sighting!
We
enjoyed a night out in Siem Reaps Night Market and the next day did a
little more exploring of Siem Reap and rented bicycles after we slept
in a bit. The Germans left that night and then I moved into an open
hostel and met up with my friend Kwyengwang who was there doing
temple restoration and representing Korea. He had restored many
temples in Korea and was now assigned to work with some Korean
colleagues in Siem Reap. It was a crazy coincidence that he was there
at the same time as me. I met with some of them for lunch and then
explored the temple they are renovating which had no other visitors
and the tuk tuk drivers weren't even sure where it was. It was
dilapidated indeed. The next morning I took off for Phnom Penh to
meet up with Andrew and Franklin.
In
PP we rented motobikes and braved Cambodian traffic (very similar,
sometimes worse than Vietnam) and headed to visit “The Killing
Fields”. I was the only girl with a big group of guys but the
atmosphere was extremely somber and sad. The listening tour was
incredibly intense. If you're not sure what the Khmer Rouge is, I
urge you to educate yourself and see what tragedy happened in
Cambodia only 30 years ago! It was genocide and to think that I
didn't learn about it at ALL during my high school AP world history
class is sickening. It made me really embarassed but I wasn't the
only person who wasn't taught anything about it. It really helped to
understand Cambodia after visiting the Killing fields and S21 prison,
the hurt and the pain the country had been through. Everyone who was
anyone, was killed. They brought trucks with thousands of people each
night to be killed and buried in pits in the ground. There was a tree
they showed where they would grab baby by the feet and crack their
heads off and toss them in the pit. Because of the erosion and the
body decomposition remanants are still floating to the surface, you
can still see clothing, jaw bones, or other items on the ground
walking around. It's extremely intense. The condition that the
prisoners had to live in as well was inhumane.
I
had another crazy meet up with my friend Jill who taught in Korea
with and we played Ultimate Frisbee together. She had just started
volunteering for a month at an orphanage in Phnom Penh. She had
arranged to go play frisbee so I met up with her, and one of the
sweetest hosts came to pick us up on her motobike. Yup, three grown
women on a motobike :) It was a bit of a squeeze to say the least,
but we made it in one piece. The frisbee crew was made up mostly of
expats. Spoon or SoSo was one of the few Cambodians. After frisbee we
went to grab some food and beer at a restaurant. After that Spoon
took Jill and I on our own little mini PP tour. We visited an awesome
restaurant and shared delicious Cambodian dishes.
Cambodian
food seemed to be a fusion among mostly Thai and some Vietnamese.
There was a dish called Lakha I believe that was very similar to Thai
curry. We had a soup, similar to Tom Yum, and some chicken that SoSo
decided to help cook. They also catered a lot to the French influence
with baguette Sandwiches all over the place, lots of omlettes, and
noodle dishes.
It
was really sad to leave SoSo and Jill since I only got to hang out
with them for a night, but I had already booked a bus for the beach!
I was headed to Sihanoukville and Koh Rong. I had heard amazing
things about this place and was so excited. After another long
journey on a minibus with a group of extremely loud Australians that
I had met before in Hoi An, Vietnam. We booked into a hostel together
and then the only girl with the guys, Tiffany a girl from California
and I went to the beach. The hostel was pretty much disgusting but
only cost 1 dollar a night, but was the WORST of my trip. The beds
were literally gym mats, rolled across wood planks. Everyone's
backpacks were in the middle of the rooms and smelled terrible. The
toilets were all over flowing and bathrooms flooded. It was located
just up the street from the beach though so Tiff and I escaped ASAP.
We found some chairs on the beach to relax in. Ended up meeting two
guys and played card games all night on the beach and enjoyed the
sunset. However we did not enjoy... the children of all ages selling
things and irritating us. We finally talked to the restaurant owner
because we couldn't get them to leave us alone, nothing worked.
Ignoring them, commenting back to what they said, giving them
something to do. As soon as the owner walked over they ran quickly!
The beach is full of these super comfy lounge chairs and tables and
they serve you everything on the beach. It is fantastic. The next
morning Tiffany and I bought tickets to head to Koh Rong. Koh Rong
was probably my favorite beach portion of the trip. It compared very
closely with Koh Phi Phi in Thailand.. The water was soo beautiful.
The perfect blue, and teal color with perfectly white sand. We hiked
to the other side of the island to where the boat dropped us off and
then enjoyed another perfect white beach. The water temperature was
perfect. I brought my book, enjoyed the sun, water and meeting new
friends. At night time there is florescent Pytoplankton which
illuminates as you swim in the water. Such an incredible thing to
experience the plankton all around you. The restaurants and bars
were so relaxed and fun. Sunsets turned into Sunrises and 2 days
turned into 7.. Koh Rong will always have an incredibly special place
in my heart.
These children on the beach came up to me and started playing. I had a blast, even though they only spoke a few words of English, they were hilarious. I thought they were absolute cuties. A long while later, it turns out they were only playing to beg for money. They were alone at first, then later an older brother i'm assuming came over to check on them, as they asked for the money.
I
spent two more nights in Sihanoukville with Charles. We had another
extremely fun night out and met two Italian guys, then decided to do
a house boat island hopping tour the next morning. There was an
adorable Chinese couple, Pearl the womans name didn't know how to
swim to I taught her how to swim and got her to jump off the boat
from the first level into the water :) They had music playing at the
top and we were all just enjoying ourselves and dancing. Then there
was an old Chinese lady probably in her 80's or 90's dancing and
doing yoga on the top deck with us. The spots they took us to was
incredible. Clearest water I'd ever seen in my life. Jumping off the
boat into the water was soo much fun. I wish I had taken more
pictures of this day, another favorite of the trip. I couldn't stop
smiling. Unfortunately our last stop, we had a long time to hang out.
Charles and I found an amazing spot in the sand a little ways from
where the boat was, and we missed our trip home! I woke up and saw
the boat in the distance... We were pretty far from the mainland.
This happened to another couple, we convinced an island boatman with
some money to take us back. Charles and I had not brought enough
money with us. Luckily the other couple said it would be okay if we
could go to an ATM when we returned to the mainland. Otherwise we
would have been sleeping on the beach hungry until when the party
boat returned the next afternoon! A little bump in the adventure but
one to remember! From Sihanouville I had to get back to Vietnam for
my flight home and to explore HCMC and visit with Royce! I got my
passport back with another visa for Vietnam in there and was on my
way.
I
really enjoyed Cambodia. As always it's hard to see the way people
live and how impoverished they are. But despite their lack of many
luxuries we have here in America, they are so happy. They don't know
any different life, so they cherish the one they have. I always try
and remember this lesson when I have a problem so small and smitten
here. Next week, next year, it won't matter at all. Slowly they are
moving on from the past and I really hope they continue to move
forward strongly. They have a lot of help from Japan and Korea
bringing in new businesses, hopefully enough to keep that going
without problems!
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